Special Cut Earrings: The Complete Guide
Special cut diamond earrings cover fancy shapes outside the seven most common cuts, including hexagon, Portuguese, and coffin cuts, for buyers seeking a distinctive silhouette not found in Lucira's dedicated round, oval, pear, marquise, princess, cushion, or emerald collections. This guide covers why people choose this category, what it costs, how these cuts work, who they suit best, and which of our styles fit different budgets, plus every question we get asked before someone buys a pair.
Why choose special cut diamond earrings
Pick this category if you want a shape with a more unusual, conversation-starting silhouette than the standard seven cuts. Each special cut shape has its own facet logic: the Portuguese cut adds an extra layer of facets to a round or square outline for extra brilliance, the hexagon cut gives a clean, modern geometric look, and the coffin cut is an elongated hexagon with a distinctive vintage edge.
The trade-off is selection. Because these cuts are less commonly produced, expect a narrower size and setting selection than round, oval, or princess.
Who this shape suits best
It suits buyers looking for a more unusual, conversation-starting silhouette than the standard shapes, or who want a piece that stands out specifically because the cut itself is uncommon. It's also a strong pick for buyers who've already built a collection of the seven standard shapes and want something distinct to add.
If the wearer prioritises a wide selection of settings and sizes over novelty, round, oval or princess from our Earring Shape Guide offer deeper collections to choose from.
What makes this cut sparkle
Each special cut shape has its own facet logic. The Portuguese cut adds an extra layer of facets beneath a round or square outline, specifically engineered for extra brilliance beyond a standard brilliant cut. The hexagon cut uses a cleaner, more geometric facet pattern for a modern, graphic look rather than maximum fire. The coffin cut (an elongated hexagon) borrows some of the vintage character of step cuts like emerald while keeping a more angular silhouette.
How much do special cut diamond earrings cost
Because these cuts are produced in lower volume than round, oval, or princess, pricing varies more by specific style than by a consistent per-carat rule; a Portuguese cut with its extra facet layer can cost more to cut than a simpler hexagon of the same carat weight.
What actually matters when judging quality
Compare photos of the specific cut you want rather than assuming consistent proportions across the whole collection, since this category spans several distinct shapes rather than one. For Portuguese and hexagon cuts, check facet symmetry under good lighting, since the added facet layers make symmetry flaws more visible than on a standard brilliant cut.
How it compares to the other seven shapes
If a distinctive, uncommon silhouette is the priority over selection depth or sparkle optimisation, this category is the right place to look. Round still wins outright on sparkle; princess or cushion give geometric looks with far deeper size and setting selection. For the full side by side breakdown of sparkle, perceived size and vibe across every option, see our Earring Shape Guide.
What this shape looks like on the ear
Sizing varies more across this category than any other, since it spans round-based Portuguese cuts, angular hexagons, and elongated coffin cuts. A hexagon or Portuguese-cut stud generally reads similarly to a round diamond of the same carat weight at the earlobe, while coffin-cut drops read more elongated, closer to a marquise or pear silhouette.
Because these are lower-volume shapes, trying on the specific style (or carefully reviewing detailed photos) matters more here than for round, oval, or princess, where sizing is more standardised.
Mistakes worth avoiding
The most common mistake is assuming all special cuts share the same proportions or durability profile; a coffin cut has elongated points similar in fragility to marquise, while a Portuguese or hexagon cut is closer to round in durability. The second is not checking available sizes and settings before falling in love with a specific photo, since this category has a narrower selection than the seven standard shapes.
The third is overlooking setting compatibility; because these cuts are less standardised, a replacement or resize request may take longer to fulfil than for a round or oval stone, worth asking about before buying if that matters to you.
Shop the styles
16 of our most-loved pieces in this silhouette are below, out of 17 total styles in the collection. Every stone is a genuine lab grown diamond in 14K gold.
Browse all 17 pieces in this collection
Choosing the right setting for you
Setting choice depends heavily on the specific cut. A Portuguese or hexagon cut generally suits a standard prong or bezel setting similarly to round or princess. A coffin cut, with its elongated points, benefits from a V-prong at each tip the same way marquise or pear does.
Across this category, a screw-back is generally the safer choice for daily wear, since the more unusual silhouettes often sit slightly differently against the earlobe than a standard round stud, and a secure backing keeps that fit consistent through the day.
Caring for your earrings after you buy them
A well-chosen setting still needs routine care to stay secure and bright. For the full routine, see our guide on how to care for your lab grown diamond earrings.
Frequently asked questions
What shapes are included in "Special Cuts" earrings? This collection covers fancy diamond shapes outside Lucira's seven dedicated shape pages, including Portuguese, hexagon, and coffin cuts.
Are special cut diamonds harder to find in larger carat sizes? Generally yes, since these shapes are produced in lower volume than round, oval, or princess, so size and setting options are narrower.
What is a Portuguese cut diamond? It's a cut with an extra layer of facets added beneath a round or square outline, engineered specifically for extra brilliance beyond a standard brilliant cut.
What's the difference between coffin cut and marquise? Coffin cut is an elongated hexagon with flatter sides and two angled ends; marquise is a pointed oval. Both carry some fragility at their elongated ends.
Should I choose a special cut for everyday earrings? It depends on the specific cut; Portuguese and hexagon cuts wear similarly to round for daily use, while coffin cut needs the same tip protection as marquise.
Why would I choose a special cut over a standard shape? Mainly for distinctiveness; these cuts are less commonly seen than round, oval, or princess, which appeals to buyers who want a more unusual silhouette.
Is this shape right for you
If a distinctive, less commonly seen silhouette matters more to you than maximum selection or sparkle optimisation, this category is worth exploring. It's the place to look when the seven standard shapes all feel too familiar. Explore the full collection below, or head back to our Earring Shape Guide to compare it against the other seven options.
